When I moved to Italy, there was no question that my dog Jake would be emigrating with me. We had both lost a beloved family member, his partner in crime and number one fan. We both needed to find peace, solace, and beauty in this most healing of places.
Eight years later, I can say without a doubt that la dolce vita is extremely “dolce” for Jake. For a lifelong leash-bound New Yorker to suddenly have free rein in the gorgeous castle gardens of the medieval hamlet of Ceri, with regular visits to the nearby Tyrrhenian seaside, was a joy to behold. Jake was more than pleased to expand his palate to incorporate doggy risotto made by the castle owner’s wife. Then there was mortadella: the first time he tried it, he was sitting on a villager’s lap. After Jake ate the cold cut, the villager, Guido, wondered why his arm was wet before exclaiming, “sono lacrime di gioia!” Jake, he said, was crying tears of joy.
Jake now splits his time between Rome and a town on Lake Bracciano outside Rome. There, he is routinely greeted as Carlo—short for carlino or pug, Bellino—little handsome guy, or Garibaldi—due to a groomer dressing him in a red bandana, like the 19th century hero Giuseppe Garibaldi’s famed Red Shirts followers. In addition to daily lakeside promenades or passeggiate, he has two dog beaches to choose from, quite the luxury in a town of fewer than 6,000 people.
Still, it sometimes seems as if Jake prefers Rome. The old city dog in him loves the urban smells of our bustling neighborhood, Trastevere. Plus, he can do so much more than he could in New York. He is even welcome in supermarkets, which have special grocery carts for dogs. This one says, “I’m here too.”
There’s pretty much nowhere dogs can’t go. Perhaps movie theaters, though just last week I saw someone trying to sneak in a Frenchie. I have yet to see a dog turned away from a restaurant, even high-class ones. Most even bring Jake his own bowl of water before we humans get ours. For special occasions, like the 12th birthday Jake just celebrated, there’s Rome’s Fiuto restaurant, which boasts an extensive canine menu. For his entrée, Jake had beef, carrots, parmesan, and rice; his birthday cake was biscuit crumble with fresh cheese and green apple. Since Jake and his friends lapped up their meals before their humans could finish theirs, the dogs were each given a donut bed according to size for postprandial napping.
Italy has a reputation for being highly accommodating to pets, literally. A 2022 study named Italy the most dog-friendly country in the world (the U.S. was #13), with the highest number of pet-friendly hotels relative to population. Italy also scored well in terms of animal protection and the number of vets. I’m happy to add that vet expenses are tax-deductible for all dog owners.
Speaking of the vet, one thing that sets Jake apart from a lot of dogs here is that he is sterilizzato or castrato. One study conducted in Central Italy a few years ago found that only 8% of male dogs were neutered. Our vet says this is largely due to misconceptions, like the idea that the dog will get fat, or be less of a guard dog. At least we’re not in Norway, where neutering as a matter of course is considered animal cruelty and prohibited excepted in special cases. There, not only would Jake stand out; I guess I’d have some explaining to do.
The system overall has been very good to Jake. He received his European Union passport before I even got my residency (it will be 10 years before I am eligible for a passport). While trips to the human anagrafa or registry office can be harrowing and full of bureaucratic headaches, the anagrafa canina or dog registry offices have, in our experience, been efficient and the staff exceedingly helpful.
One new regulation that has dog owners talking is a requirement in Bolzano, now expanding from Alto Adige to Piedmont, to submit dogs’ DNA to a database. Dogs’ “business” or bisogni (needs) left in the streets will then lead to fines of between $300 and $1100. While one might question whether this is a good use of forensic investigation resources, we’re not worried.
As long as I continue picking up Jake’s bisogni, it’s a grand life—our dolce vita.
We were having a problem with our not- neutered Labrador running off when the girls up the hill were in heat. It was significant enough that i brought him to the vet to get him fixed. Our vet asked me if I wanted him to get castrated or just a vasectomy. A dog vasectomy. So he would still run but not make babies??? He said, "Signora, your poor dog still deserves a little enjoyment in life, don't you think?" In the end we let him hold on to the family jewels.
I couldn’t love this more!!